Friday, September 21, 2007

Australia Entry 14 - Katherine to Broome

Saturday September 15th we left Katherine for Kununurra some 515 kms to the west. We were woken as usual by a cacophony of bird song. We've commented before on the wonderful bird life in Australia but first thing in the morning we are a little ambivalent about the winged creatures all around us. Before first light, which is about 6:00 a.m., the birds start their morning chants and it is impossible (or at least we haven't learned how) to sleep through the loud chirping, whistling, cooing, screeching, cawing and chattering of at least a dozen different types of birds, each seemingly wanting to outdo the others in volume and duration of their “song”. And as we always seek out heavily treed campgrounds for the shade provided, there are naturally birds all around us to welcome the new day and to make sure we don't sleep in. It's nice to hear so many birds singing, but boy they are loud and sleeping in is an impossibility. So, we were up about 6:30 and our first chore was to take down the tent before the rapidly rising sun and punishing heat made the task more arduous.
After we had breakfast and showers, we collected our ice bottles from the camp freezer and packed up our perishables in our two Eskies. An Esky is the Aussie name for a cooler and we have one large one and a smaller one which keep our drinks, butter, eggs, etc. cool. Of course keeping the Eskies cold requires ice and for this we use a few 1 and 2 litre soft drink bottles filled with water and frozen solid, providing 2 or 3 days of cooling. Most campgrounds have camp fridge with freezer or we've also been able to freeze the bottles at the campground reception. Anyway, with everything packed up we were on the road by 9:30.
Our stay in Katherine had been very enjoyable as we had seen some great sites and had unexpectedly found a free Internet hot spot. But one troubling thing about our visit to this outback town was seeing the plight of the Aboriginal peoples here. The towns and outposts of the northern Australia outback are largely populated by native Aboriginal peoples. Many of them are unemployed and seem to live listless lives walking slowly along dusty roads in bare feet and dirty-looking clothes, or sitting in a group in the shade of a tree. They seem to have no purpose in life and of course their hopelessness has resulted in alcohol abuse and violence. In Mount Isa, Katherine and a number of settlements along the way, we saw drunken Aboriginals quarreling, swearing and threatening others. In the mall in Katherine there was often loud shouting and raucous behaviour from young and old people alike. And one afternoon in the parking lot of the mall we saw an inebriated women yelling and swearing at man and threatening him with a large rock, in some dispute over money. These types of scenes are disturbing and a little frightening and you just want to turn your back and not get involved. The government here tries its best to implement policies to help these people but like native issues everywhere, there doesn't seem to be any good solution nor a way out of their hapless existence for these people. The Aboriginal history, culture and artifacts are so amazing...it's a tragedy that the native Australia race has become what it largely is today...much as a result of the sins of early settlers to this continent which, it seems, can never be undone.
Throughout the Kimberley region are scattered the most amazing-looking trees, called Boabs. They have bulbous trunks that narrow at the top, almost like a vase, with thin branches sticking out the top. Some of them almost look like people and as they are often found in groups of 3 or 4 in different sizes
the groups can resemble a family with mum, dad and a kid or two. Because of their shapes they seem to have personalities, and occasionally look like the Whomping Willow at Hogwarts. (I wonder if the inspiration for that tree came from the Boabs.) Some of them look like a huge inverted rutabaga. According to legend, the Boab was once a very handsome proud tree, but one of the deities thought it was getting a bit too proud and growing too close to heaven, so he pulled it out of the ground and stuck it back in upside down, roots up.
The drive west from Katherine picked up where we had left off three days before. The vista before us was one of a long straight roadway cutting through flat scrub land that bordered the highway as far as the eye could see. We had the A/C going full blast as the temperature was already over 30 and was climbing steadily. The morning sky was a brilliant blue and the rising sun was at our back as we headed toward our first stop of Timber Creek Despite the hot morning, with the A/C on our little van was quite comfortable and we again felt that sense of adventure and anticipation when setting off for a new destination.
As previously mentioned, we had met two couples travelling around Australia (Nigel and Renee and their two year old daughter were taking 18 months to see Australia, and Shirley ... the expat Canadian... and her husband Reg had sold up and now the caravan is their home) and each of our three nights in Katherine we had shared “happy hour” sitting in the warm evening air outside one or the other of their vans. They were both leaving Katherine that morning too and were also headed west along the same route. They had hooked up their trailers and had departed an hour or so before us, so we were quite surprised to catch up with Nigel and Renee an hour after we set off. They were just pulling off the road for a tea break and we exchanged waves as we motored past. A couple of hours later we passed Reg and Shirley. The caravaners only do about 90 kph and we cruise at about 110 so we left them behind pretty quickly. The speed limit in the Northern Territory is 130 kph though I haven't seen anyone driving that fast as the roads can be pretty bumpy at times.
As on each of other drives so far, the terrain kept changing as we motored westward. Just before noon we saw some hazy hills in the distance and before long we driving through some beautiful countryside where high escarpments had been weathered away to leave huge outcroppings of layered red and black rocks and stratified cliff faces. And every so often we'd unexpectedly pass a river which seemed totally incongruous with the parched landscape all around. And frequently we would come across patches of land that had been blackened by recent brush fires, some of them still smoldering sending columns of smoke hundreds of feet straight up in the dead calm air and turning the air hazy for miles around.
About 1:00 pm we pulled into Timber Creek, a tiny settlement half way to Kununurra. We had originally planned to stay here one night, but one look at the run down town made us glad that we had decided on the longer drive to the much larger Kununurra. We knew that both our caravaning friends planned to stay here Saturday night, so we wondered if they would change their mind when they saw the hot dusty settlement and shabby-looking van park. (Sure enough, a couple of hours after we arrived in Kununurra both couples drove into the camp site we were all heading for, so it was “happy hour” yet again!)
We filled up with diesel at Timber Creek ($1.75 a litre...the most we have paid yet!) and then pulled into a rest stop by the wide Victoria River just west of town. The afternoon was stifling hot and we quickly gobbled down our cheese sandwich and jumped back into the car. We did see one interesting thing at this stop. Looking out over the river as we ate lunch, we saw a white blob floating in the river on the far bank. We got our binoculars out to look but couldn't make out what it was, though we both thought it looked like a carcass of some sort. It was only later in the day that Reg told us he had been parked a little ways behind where we were and had seen a crocodile haul a white cow into the river. And I guess that was what we saw floating along. I guess they are serious here when they say to stay away from river banks. The waterways hereabouts are literally teeming with salt water crocodiles, and unlike the freshwater ones we talked about in the previous blog, they definitely don't subsist on insects!!
We crossed the border into Western Australia in mid afternoon. WA has a quarantine on most fruit and vegetables and some other goods such as honey and they apparently take this pretty seriously as the crossing into the state was just like a border crossing between countries. We had heard about this quarantine so had used up most of our fresh veggies. Uniformed officers inspected our van and confiscated a few remaining potatoes and onions we had, as well as a lemon we'd stupidly purchased just the day before. And they took our jar of honey as well! A least we didn't have to produce our passports or anything!! Anyway, we were soon back on the road and it wasn't long before we got to our destination.
Kununurra turned out to be a lovely little town in the midst of an agricultural plain where the abundance of irrigation has resulted in farms of every description. Our campground was rated as a 5 star park and was really very nice. We were planning to stay here 2 or 3 nights and we have agreed to put up the tent whenever we have a multi night stay, so Sue was very surprised and delighted when I suggested we check out an on-site cabin instead of putting up the tent. The cabins in campgrounds here are small but are well equipped for self-catering and are, most importantly, air conditioned. I had been thinking since lunch at it would be very uncomfortable to tent in this heat and I instantly made up my mind that we would opt for a cabin as soon as I opened the van door and was hit with a wave of hot air as if I had opened the door of a hot oven. We later learned from Nigel, who had a thermometer in his car, that the temperature had hit 41 en route!!!
So luckily a comfortable cabin was available and we settled in for a three night stay.
Sunday we drove around the area in the morning, stopping at a local fruit shop for some fresh veggies and a cone of homemade mango ice cream (delicious), and then continuing on to the “Hoochery” the oldest legal distiller in Western Australia where some of the local cane crop is turned into rum. We stopped for a tasting and found it was quite agreeable and much better than Bundaberg rum which is the national rum of Australia. At $40 a bottle it's a little steep, but then again so is all liquor in this country, so we sprang for a bottle. We then continued on to a small nearby National Park where we walked along a trail to the “Mini Bungle Bungles”....more very stunning red rock formations. We had booked a full day tour of the real Bungle Bungles for Monday, so this was a test run and we found it very tough going. The track was no problem but the heat was almost overwhelming as their was no shade and the directly-overhead sun beat down mercilessly. We considered cancelling the trip the next day until we enquired at the information office in town and were assured that the walks through the gorges were pretty much shaded because of the deep, narrow canyons. And, as it turned out, we were to have another incredible excursion to one of Australia's premier attractions.
We were up very early the next morning for our 5:30 pick up at the campsite, and were soon on our way out to the Kununurra airport for our scheduled 6:00 a.m. departure on a flight to the Bungle Bungle range some 150 kms to the south. We had booked a full day tour which included a scenic flight the Bungles and a walking tour of two gorges within the Bungle Bungle national park. Our bus dropped us off at the airport where several small single-engine aircraft were standing on the tarmac, ready to board the 20 or so people taking various excursions. Most were doing scenic flights out to the Bungles and back, but we, along with another couple, were going to land in the park and do some walking there. The already warm morning (28 degrees by 6:00 and steadily climbing to a forecasted 42) had produced some mist and light clouds which were hanging low over the area and we were delayed in our take off till about 7:00. When the clouds cleared we boarded a 6 passenger Cessna and were air borne in no time, me sitting beside our young pilot, Mark, who looked about 18, and Sue sitting in the next row behind me.
The Bungle Bungles are a range of rare rock outcroppings covering some 450 square kilometers in Purnululu National park in the midst of the barren Kimberley outback. Our flight took about an hour and en route we were treated to some awesome scenery as we initially passed over Lake Argyle (Australia's largest man-made lake, classed as an inland sea, which was created after the damming for the Ord River and is so big that boats on the lake must be registered as ocean-going vessels!) and the barren but fascinating outback terrain, stretching in a flat red and brown canvas as far as the eye could see. At one point we passed two formations that had been cause by tectonic plate movement and looked from 5000 ft like two huge waves rolling across the desert. But it was the sight of the Bungle Bungles themselves that was most impressive as we banked down to the nearby red-earth landing strip.
The Bungles are famous for their dramatic formations and the orange and black strata that cover their surface. From the air they looked like a collection of hundreds of mounds of striped clay that someone had placed side by side to form little bee hives set amongst larger jagged hills and escarpments. But as spectacular as these formations were from the air, they were even more striking from close up as we were soon to find out.
As our little plane taxied to a stop on the dusty air strip, a white Toyota Land Cruiser pulled up and a young lady welcomed the four of us to Purnululu National Park. Jodi was to be our driver and tour guide for the day and without further ado, we jumped into the wonderful air conditioned interior of the powerful four wheel drive vehicle and were off for our first walk at the Cathedral Gorge.
We drove along a dirt track for about 15 kms and were amazed to see several people on dirt bikes, pedaling energetically along the road. Although it was only about 8:30 the day was already sweltering and we couldn't fathom why anyone would want to be bicycling through this hot desert on one of the outback bicycling adventure tours when they could be doing it like us in air conditioned comfort. Oh well, to each their own I guess. Anyway we soon arrived at the parking area for our first walk. Jody suggested we take umbrellas to help shelter from the intense sun and with those in hand and topped up water bottles, we set off down the trail to the Cathedral Gorge.
We soon came to some spectacular rounded conical formations with their black and orange stripes making it appear as if the rocks had been covered by some giant tiger skin. Our guide pointed out a portion of the surface rock which had fallen away leaving the white sandstone base exposed. The red and black surface stripes on these rock formations are only a couple of millimeters thick, like a coat of paint covering the main structure of white sandstone. Jodi told us that the formations were over 300 million years old and had been formed in thin layers. Some of the sandstone layers were infused with clay which held the moisture better than the other layers. It was in these clay-laden layers that a cyanobacteria grew during the wet season, so the layers were green then, and turned black in the dry season resulting in the black striped effect. The red layers resulted from oxidisation of the iron in the rock. Without these two different protective layers, the soft sandstone would have long since eroded. It is the striped effect that make the Bungle Bungles unique.
Although this area is sacred and well-known to the Aboriginal people, because of its remoteness it was known to very few people outside the local area, until a documentary in the 1980's on the cattle stations in the area highlighted the rocks. The area was made into a National Park and has become one of the top tourist attractions in the region, and is also a World Heritage Site. A brochure I read said about 44,000 people a year visit the Bungles, so I figure, the park being open for about 20 years, less than 1,000,000 tourists have seen it. We are lucky to be among that number. If the Bungle Bungles are not listed in “1000 Places to See Before you Die”, it should be.
After walking a little way along the Piccaninny Creek bed which was bone dry at this time of year, we set off along a sandy path which in “the wet” would be a flowing river, through a gorge until we came to a giant cavern ... the Cathedral Cavern. This huge amphitheater-like formation which was perhaps two hundred feet across and 60 fit high, had been carved out of the rock by eons of water action. It was much cooler in the cavern and we sat and had a boxed breakfast that was provided as part of the tour.
After the Cathedral Gorge walk we returned to the vehicle and set off north for an hour's drive along a rough road to our walk up the Echidna Chasm. We had come to the opposite side of the Bungles range and its topography was quite different from where we had first walked. The steep cliffs of the towering formations were bright orange with no black bands. The noon sun was directly over head and the temperature was over 40 as we set off up the narrow gorge where an underground water source had resulted in something of an oasis with tall palm trees and green shrubs lining the entrance. The path was through a rock strewn dry river bed and we had to watch our step pretty carefully to avoid a twisted ankle. A fifteen minute walk brought us to the chasm itself, a very narrow slit in the rock as if a giant knife had slashed down to cut a thin 400 ft deep gap in the rock. The path was so narrow it was possible to touch both walls of the slender ravine by extending our arms. We continued along for about a kilometer in the cool shade where the temperature was probably 15 degrees cooler than it had been “outside”. The path ended abruptly in a sheer wall rising to a narrow opening to the blue sky above. This mini canyon was an amazing structure and well worth the drive to get there.
Back at the entrance we sat in the shade and had lunch before heading back to the Wilderness Lodge for afternoon tea. The lodge is actually a wilderness camp which has been built for overnight visitors. It is possible to drive here over a 50 km outback track which takes 2.5 hours to traverse in a good four wheel drive vehicle, but many visitors take the one hour flight from Kununurra. The accommodation is pretty basic with “tent cabins”, canvas-covered structures with bed and small en suite bathroom. Thirty of these sat on the dry, sandy ground with an open air eating area at one end. Although very basic and rustic, this accommodation is not for those with small wallets as an overnight stay for two costs $390, though this does include meals.
Our pilot, Mark, had had a pretty easy day as he had to wait all day for us. So about 4:00 he donned his shirt and shoes and we set off for the airstrip and our flight home. We had a final fly round the Bungles for a few minutes and then headed north towards Kununurra. The highlight of the return trip was a pass over the Argyle Diamond Mine, the world's largest. This huge open pit mine, 700 metres deep, was opened in the early 80's and today produces 30% of the world's diamonds. About 5% of the production is gem quality diamonds, and some of these are the rare pink diamonds. About 98% of the world's pink diamonds come from here. As we flew over the mine we also saw the airstrip which is the main means of access for the 300 workers and supplies. This paved airstrip is the longest privately owned strip in the world allowing large passenger jets to land and take off. And most importantly it allows these jets to carry out shipments of diamonds to Perth for processing and onward shipment. Apparently boxes of diamonds worth $20,000,000 are placed aboard selected outbound flights by the head of security at the mine who is the only person who knows they are on board until they land in Perth....a measure to prevent theft. The airstrip is constructed with stone hauled from the mine and it is estimated that there is about 2 million dollars worth of diamonds in it. When the mine is shut down, probably around 2020, the strip will be dug up and the diamonds salvaged.
When we got back to town we popped into a jewelry store and asked to see some pink diamonds which the lady was happy to show us. They really are a lovely soft pink shade. There was one stone, .25 carat, or about the size of the main diamond in Sue's engagement ring, which was priced at $35,000. Some Argyle Mine pink diamonds have sold for over one million dollars a carat! Unfortunately, that is just a little outside our budget for souvenirs.
That evening we joined our usual happy hour friends for a drink and to compare stories of the day's excursions. The other two couples had just done the flight portion and a river cruise on the Ord River. We all agreed that the flight had been spectacular and a unique experience here in Australia's East Kimberley region.
The next morning we set off on our trip to Fitzroy Crossing where we were to spend the night. Before we left Kununurra, we stopped in at workshop where they produce jewelry and ornaments made from the incredible striped sandstone which is found on a small peninsula in Lake Argyle. It can only be mined 2 months a year as it is submerged the rest of the time. The layered and multi-colored stones were like nothing we have seen before. Some of them are striped and called Zebra stone, and others are spotted and look like leopard skin. It was fascinating to see all the beautiful objects that had been made of this dramatically patterned stone. For $20 we bought a small back of stone cutting samples which we will be able to cut and polish ourselves when we get home, but if airline weight restrictions had not been a consideration, it would have been tempting to buy one of the large objects.
Our drive to Fitzroy Crossing took us through more of the fascinating terrain we had been crossing for days. It is amazing how quickly the countryside can change as every 20 kms or so the landscape would change from flat grass land, to rolling hills or stark red rock outcroppings. As we drove I was reminded of the book by Bill Bryson that I spoke of in an earlier blog entry....In a Sunburned Country. Well in this part of Australia you can forget the “sun” part of the title as it really is just a “burned country”. As we drove we kept coming across vast stretches of blackened scrub land stretching away from the highway to the horizon. At one point we came across a bush fire burning very close to the highway and as we drove along the flames rushed right up to the side of the road and even enclosed in our van, we could feel the intense heat as we passed by. Later we were to learn that approximately half of the huge area of the Kimberley burns each year, some of it purposefully set as a preventative measure to prevent major conflagrations.
We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at 5:00 just before sunset and checked at the River Lodge, a surprisingly upscale motel, restaurant and caravan park in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately they had no available motel rooms though for $135 we could have had one of their “tent cabins”. We decided that we might as well put up the tent for $27 rather than pay this outrageous amount for similar accommodation. The temperature was still in the high thirties so it was hot work erecting the tent. And we had one of the most uncomfortable nights of the trip as the temperature inside the tent stayed around 28 with no airflow. After sweating to put up the tent, we decided to go to the Lodge's restaurant for dinner and had a very good buffet meal for only $25 each....delicious pumpkin soup, a great selection of bar-b-qued meats, with salads, veggies, and desserts. I had a huge New York strip loin steak which was undoubtedly the best beef I'd had since leaving Alberta while Sue sampled the lamb chops and rissoles. An unexpected delight in this small outpost town which was little more than a fuel stop in the desert.
The next morning, Wednesday September 19th, we set off on the last leg of our cross-continent trip to Broome. We had about 400 kms to go to reach this tourist town on the Indian Ocean. We bombed along at about 115 kph and arrived in Broome just after noon. We had been on the road across Australia for 16 days and had seen some wondrous country and many amazing sights. The trek had been long but much more interesting than we had anticipated before setting off. The biggest surprises were the surprisingly good quality of the roads and the constantly changing scenery as we covered the 4500 kms across the country. The heat at times had been oppressive but our air conditioner in our old van had performed admirably keeping us reasonably cool as we motored along through the shimmering desert heat. And finally we reached beautiful Broome, the old pearling capital of Australia, where the temperature was a cooler 35 degrees and a constant sea breeze actually made it almost pleasant outside. Sue was quite relieved to be here. Even though the countryside had been interesting, it was starting to be too much of a good thing. One of the first things we noticed was the air. It was moist and tropical with balmy ocean undertones, unlike the air across the outback which was so dry you could almost feel yourself being dehydrated minute by minute. Our stay in Broome will be the subject of our next blog entry. Some photos of our Kununurra adventures and trip across to Broome follow.
Till next time.........


Back on the road leaving Katherine....a lot of miles ahead of us ! A better picture of a road train....we encounter these things often.
Some scnery along the way.
Our first Boab tree..the strange looking tree that grows thoughout the Kimberley. Some of these trees are over 2000 years old.

A typical caravan park cabin where we sometimes stay when we don't want to put up the tent. We visited a fruit store just outside Kununurra where they made delicious mango ice cream.
Then it was on to this distillery...the oldest (legal) distillery in Western Australia.


Sampling the rum (excellent) and cane liquers

We took a walk in the "Mini Bungles" just outside Kununurra in preparation for the next day's excursion to the real Bungles. My but it was hot!

Ther terrain here was similar to what we would see the next day though very limited in area.


At the airport for our flight in a small Cessna.

Off and flying!
Lake Argyle....Ausralia's largest man made lake.

The barren land of the Kimberley stretched as far as we could see.
This was the unique formation that looked like two huge waves breaking over the landscape.
Airial views as we flew over the Bungle Bungles on our approach into the small airstrip



The white sandstone is covered by a thin layer of harder surface materials which protect the base structure from erosion. The entrance to Cathedral Gorge

These striped formations were spectacular in the bright morning sunshine.
The Piccanniny River bed, dry as a bone at this time of year but a raging torrent in a few months when the wet season arrives.
A panoramic view of the Bungles
Enternig the Cathedral Gorge
This was the support vehicle for the group cycling through the outback in 45 degree heat. Crazy!
On the road to our second walk....we encountered 3 or 4 other vehicles but the track certainly wasn't crowded!
A couple of hikers outside the entrance to the Echidna Chasm.
The terrain just aournd the Echidna Chasm. This was on the north side of the range and the topography was quite different from our first location on the south side.
A spring supported the growth of some plants here at the entrance to the chasm.

Setting off into the cool shade of the chasm were it was considerable cooler....maybe only 35 degrees!
Walking through the narrow cleft in the rock.
This rock will no doubt tumble one day when it erodes enough to fall between the walls.
This is the park "lodge" where one of the tent cabins sets you back $390 per night!
The dining area at the lodge where we had afternoon tea.

Some correllas (smaller cousin of the white cockatoo) were drinking at a pool near the dining structure. This one seemed to be trying to cool off by spreading its wings.Getting ready for our homeward flight.Some pictures of the fascinating terrain as we flew home in the late afternoon. These are taken through the window of the aircraft and the colors have been subdued considerably by having to shoot through the glass.

We passed over the huge Argyle Diamond Mine, the world's biggest.

More of the scenery on the flight back to Kununurra

This was another of the boab trees with its amazing bulbous trunk and spindly branches.
We visited a work shop near Kununrra that makes ornaments and jewelry from this amazing striped sandstone that is found only at one location in the world....on the shores of Lake Argyle.
A sample of what they produce.
We left Kununurra and headed for Fitzroy Crossing, a small road stop 600 kms west. As we had throughout the trip, we often came across scorched areas of brush land. Tens of thousands of square kilometres burn every dry season.
Along the road this day we passed right by a brush fire raging to the right of the road. We could feel the intense heat as we drove by.

The scenery was ever-changing as we drove the long road westward.

A typical roadhouse stop along the way. These roadhouses are spaced every few hundred kilometres so we could fuel up .... didn't want to run out in the middle of nowhere!
STAY TUNED FOR OUR NEXT ENTRY....OUR ARRIVAL IN BROOME ON THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN.......














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